Boo!
When I first moved to New York from the Bay Area, I had to seriously winnow down my cookbook collection. As a food writer, I received countless cookbooks to review. And my friends were the happy beneficiaries of my collection when I headed East. One of the cookbooks I could not leave behind was a slim, soft-cover volume of classic Italian recipes which, I believe, was published by the CIA. Every recipe in that book was a winner, but there were three recipes I cooked on repeat: osso bucco, lemon risotto and braised radicchio.
Braised radicchio was a revelation to me. Like most Americans, I'd only eaten this bitter green raw in salads. While I admired the vibrant color it brought to a ho-hum salad, the bitterness sometimes put me off. But Italians have long known that browning radicchio mellows its bitter notes while adding sweetness through caramelization. A different beast altogether.
That dog-eared cookbook has since disappeared over the years. Did I loan it to someone? Did one of my daughters take it when they moved to their own apartments? Was it not pretty enough to put on my current cookbook shelf (likely scenario, lol). I moved on to other books, and other favorite dishes. But whenever I spy radicchio at the market in the fall, it sends me on a hunt for both the cookbook and new radicchio recipes.
So, imagine my delight when I came across this recipe for braised raddicchio and fennel. This recipe specifically calls for the conical radicchio, known as Rosso di Treviso, the type Obercreek Farm sells, and Vermouth, which, in cooking, makes me giddy. This recipe calls for sautéing radicchio in balsamic vinegar which you can find at Agape Premium EVOO.
This doesn't mean you shouldn't eat radicchio leaves raw. But, as former Chez Panisse chef David Tanis points out, you need a sharp-tongued ingredient in the dressing or in the salad to serve as a counterpoint to the radicchio's bitterness. Consider this radicchio salad with pears and blue cheese, or this radicchio salad with an anchovy dressing. Either one of these salads would complement your Thanksgiving meal. I'm a big supporter of bitter greens to balance the tubers, tryptophan and gravy.
I was so happy to see Japanese sweet potatoes (satsumaimo) at the market last week in the Halal Pastures tent. These purple-ish sweet potatoes are naturally sweet and have a dense, chestnut-like texture. They taste especially delicious baked with miso butter instead of regular butter. Or you can use them in this soup to enjoy with a warmed miche wedge from Wave Hill Breads or focaccia from Zeena Bakery.
I went on a beautiful hike on Sunday at the Mianus River Gorge (thanks, Melanie for the tip!) and you know what I packed in my backpack? Several small Mead Orchards' "pomme grises" - cousins of the rustic Russets I tend to go on and on about. The perfect sweet and crisp snack to enjoy on a rock surrounded by shimmering leaves in shades of all the apple varieties available at the market right now.
If you're hosting this Thanksgiving, you no doubt plan on serving apple pie. If you're looking for a recipe with a little more "oomph" for the big day, consider this salted caramel apple pie.
Nicky's Made with Love Granola is back on this plaza this week. Stock up!
We've extended our Halloween costume "swap" through Saturday. You don't have to give a costume to take one. But if you have extra costumes you are ready to part with we'd appreciate your donation as we are running low! Thanks in advance.
See you at the market—hopefully in costume!